london1952 | Entries tagged with calabria

I realised that I never finished posting things about our Calabrian trip thanks to weeks of LJ instability, and memories of the lovely trip came flooding back last night, thinking of our impending trip to Puglia. I had a call yesterday afternoon from my mother and she was feeling unwell, and was somewhat over-worrying about it and visualising herself being hospitalised, so apart from me worrying about her too I was contemplating the possibility of being prevented from going away, and how much Franco would be set to loose in hard-cash-terms. Thankfully things seem to be more settled today, and I'm going up to Leeds for one of my regular weekends “up north” in any case, so will see what's going on !

One of the places we had booked to stay for one night during the second half of our trip was a Bed & Breakfast in the small town of Cotronei. We'd both spotted a rather nice historical looking establishment when we were planning the trip, so had decided on it, the price was a tad higher than the rest of the places we booked, but I do like my little bit of “luxury”!

After a day of touring, we arrived at the outskirts in the late afternoon and followed the sat-nav instructions through the centre, we were on the correct road but had no idea where “Palazzo Verga” would be, or what it would look like. The road was very narrow in places, mainly on the bends, and full off Calabrians driving maniacally leaving no chance for us to slow down or pull in ! We carried on until we reached the edge of town and parked up for a breather, at which point Franco decided to set off on foot to find the place. It turned out we weren't far away, he'd asked a local, so we got our luggage and walked. (we later navigated the one-way system and parked in the grounds)

DOVE SIAMO

On arrival, the building looked somewhat austere and there wasn't much in the way of signage, so it seemed rather daunting, particularly as the light was fading, dogs were barking in the distance and the smell of burning logs hung in the air...... not to mention hardly a soul about.

However, when the large entrance door opened it all changed ! We were greeted like friends by the owner and her mother, and 3 or 4 small dogs. Our luggage was whisked away, as was my jacket, which was found later hanging on an antique wooden coat-hanger. It was insisted that we sit in the (huge) kitchen and have some refreshment before we did anything else and recovered from our journey. Apparently we were the only guests to find the place without having to ring and find out how to find them.... so they were starting to worry we were very lost ! Apparently, having waited so long for red-tape permission to put up signs, our host had done it herself, only to be fined and had to take them down ! … and was now still waiting for the go-ahead.

The kitchen has a host of original fittings, beautifully restored and modern services are discreetly and cleverly built in behind the scenes.

After a few pleasantries, Tatiana (the owner) showed us around the rooms we were welcome to use during our stay..... the kitchen (naturally!), the sitting room, the library and her study, all beautifully decorated and furnished with great personality and in keeping with the style and age of the house. I asked if we could take photographs and were told “of course”, though the more we realised how personal everything is the less it seemed appropriate to take too many, particularly using flash.....

Tatiana insisted on carrying our very heavy suitcase up three floors to our room. It was a suite, the sitting room of which you could fit our whole home in ! Plus a bedroom and bathroom with all mod-cons. One lovely detail (for me) was that electrics hadn't been “chased” into the walls, but antique finish twisted silk flex was used on the surface for all lighting and switches, thus not causing any damage to the fabric of the old house.

After settling and unpacking our bits for the night, Tatiana gave us a tour of the Piano Noble which includes her and her mother's rooms and the principal rooms of the house. All painstaking restored over nearly ten years, and containing much of the original furnishings and treasures that have been in the family house for generations – we couldn't bring ourselves to spoil the atmosphere with our cameras as we were told the history of the family. Even her great-grandmother's wedding dress was in a wardrobe in perfect condition.

It was then tea served in the library, while Franco chatted to the mother in Italian.... and it all felt rather “Downton Abbey” !

It was suggested that we try a “nearby” restaurant for dinner, a short drive away..... our suggestion of somewhere walk-able fell on deaf ears, and a call was made to book a table for us at “the only place mother would eat out at” ! An informal map (!) was drawn and it all seemed pretty straight-forward to find the “in the middle of nowhere” taverna 10 minutes away. We were to ring Tatiana if we got lost, she was meeting friends but would come and find us ! So we drove for 10 minutes, with very little sign of life, icy hair-pin bends and darkness apart from moonlight every so often. We drove for another 10 minutes of the same, definitely in the middle of nowhere, still nothing, then a bit further on, just as we were seriously contemplating turning around, if only we could find anywhere wide enough, we spotted said hostelry down a very steep driveway......... (the meal is on an earlier post).

When we got back we sat in the study for Franco to use his lap-top, Tatiana arrived home and made drinks for us, and chatted some more. We slept in monogrammed silk sheets, and rose to a sumptuous home-made breakfast in the morning.

Before leaving, we were shown the out-buildings including the stables that had also been lovingly restored and made into an inoteca and a restaurant, to be opened this summer. As we said our goodbyes, mother wanted to make us a packed lunch to take with us and we were given instructions by Tatiana that if we got lost anywhere in north Calabrian that we must ring her on her mobile and she would come, or get a friend to come, and find us !

It was just like leaving old friends !! and there was of course so much more to the experience.

Current Mood: contemplative
Current Location: home

Mention Italy and at once people say "you'll eat fantastically!", and usually I would agree (though there are a few specialities I do avoid - having a "british" stomach !!)..... but on this trip it was, to say the least, a little different ! - though all quite memorable for dfferent reasons !!

I think probably the main reason was that being so out-of-season most of the restaurants and cafe were closed for the duration....

So.......

Day 1

At Gatwick airport, having left home at just after 4.30am !, we were checked through by 6am and had plenty of time for a decent toasted ham & cheese pannini & cappuccino......

On the flight we had a "solid" BA egg & bacon roll (Franco couldn't face his) no gin for me as I would be driving soon (the hour wouldn't put me off ! G&T for breakfast ? - lovely !! LOL)

After a long hair-raising drive we reached our destination for the night, Praia a Mare, and after the rain eased off we found a fairly smart cafe for coffee & apple cake.

As it seemed to be the only restaurant open in the evening we went to a nearby pizzeria (1980's decor) . A caprese salad and prawn cocktail wee ok starters, then "the worst pizzas in world !" turned up ! The didn't look too bad, but Franco's double pizza, very bread-y and filled with congealed white cheese and pink slimey fennel flavoured sausage bits was vile........ and my pizza was bread-y and soggy ! We left most of them, but, being very English, didn't complain................

Day 2

Breakfast at the B&B - OK

We visited a town called Pizzo, “famous” for its fabled Tartufo. After being enticed (again without a smile) into one of the couple of places open, the "owner" took our order for one dark chocolate and one white chocolate tartufo... he took the order 3 times in ten minutes or so, each time coming to the table as if he'd not been before !! eventually blaming the poor girl behind the counter for the delay - what was he on ??!! - and it was disappointing with a capital "D" !

In Tropea where we stayed for a couple of nights we hurried in the pouring rain to a small pizzeria we'd seen earlier in the evening, and which appeared to be the only place open. We had a reasonable beef tagliata, and dessert.. I had (one of) the best tiramisu ever, though as it was served in a white bowl and had a smooth white surface, I didn't take a photo, I did however of Franco's strawberry tart....

Day 3

Breakfast in the hotel - A procession of all manner of breakfast foods brought to the table by the waitress on trays... it seemed never-ending, and the guy from reception bought us shots of something schnapps-like with a slice of apple in it too !

We visited the Monastery of Saint Bruno of Cologne, and nearby was log cabin with smoking chimney which appeared open for business, though on enquiring no snacks were available (Franco was met with a definite "NO"), only lunch was, apparently, no menu so we settled on pasta with tomato and mushrooms. When it eventually arrived, not a sign of tomato ! We were the only diners, though were joined by four children in fancy dress who screeched and ran about for the duration.... we think they belonged to the owners of the establishment !! Franco was traumatised by it all, including the pasta !

Second night in Tropea so we returned to the pizzeria, and as the menu boasted some 500 variations we settled on pizzas ! - they were good.

Day 4

Breakfast - repeat of the trays !!

In the city of Reggio Calabria we had a toasted sandwich, coffee & pastry in the only cafe we came across open.

We were now staying two nights in Scilla. The hotel was on the edge of town, and the lady owner suggested a nearby (walking distance) trattoria – "La Botte" – Bruschetta arrived very quickly, and was nice, then we waited, and waited.......... The was a big table of regulars nearby, all men, who had a constant supply of courses of food and drink........ eventually (an hour or so) Franco' pasta arrived, but my choice was unavailable as there were problems wit the gas supply ! I picked something that they could do and waited for that....old boot soles in breadcrumbs. Luckily the large carafe of local house red wine was very drinkable (and cheap) ! and football on the large telly ! There were more apologies as we left, and as there was nowhere else to go we did't mind too much.

Day 5

Breakfast in the hotel – what was left ! the other guest had depleted most of the buffet....

Lunch - "some food at a skiing resort and we were surrounded by coachloads of unruly teenagers" - sandwich to break your teeth !

Second night in Scilla – "La Botte" again, so we didn't need to move the car, and I could have a drink, and surely it would be better - mistake ! - rerun of the previous night, but ignored more because of a more important football match on the tv........... I had a "red mist moment" though it was wasted as the language barrier came into play....... the panel of the glass in the door rattled as we left when I "closed" it firmly !

Day 6

Breakfast in the hotel - plus some cake

The only cafe open in Le Castella, and the first smiling face ! - we had a drink with a panoramic view of the castle - a good coffee for me.

We were staying at Plazzo Verga for the night..... a seperate post coming up later for this wonderful place. We were sent to the only restaurant our hosts mother would eat at locally. Supposedly 10 minutes out of the village, a table as booked for us. A good 20 minutes drive on icy, hairpin bends, in the dark, in the middle of nowhere, we eventually found the place, a taverna...... log fire and all....... the owner's parents welcomed us, and as there was no menu, went with what was suggested... all beautifully cooked. Again we were the only diners until another couple, obviously regulars, arrived.

Day 7

Breakfast at Palazzo Verga ! A feast ! A swiss dish of fresh fruit with museli and yoghurt, home-made swiss bread, toast, eggs, cold meat & cheese, pastries, etc........... and an offer of packed lunches !!!

In Santa Severina we had a coffee and pleasant, smiley face again !

Along the way at lunchtime we called into an out-of-town shopping mall (the only one we ever saw) and an adjacent drive-through Mc Donalds ! Almost (it was) a treat !!

Our night stop-over was at Laghi Di Sibari, a large hotel in a resort obviously built for summer holidays. We were almost the only souls staying here, and didn't hold out much hope of dinner. We'd past a(nother!) pizzeria (nooooooooo!!) that we could have driven back to. However, Franco went to reception once we'd settled in the room to sort out internet connection, and came back with the news we would be eating in th hotel restaurant and had settled on steak and salad. As it turned out we had very nicely cooked steak and fresh green salad followed by cheese and a bottle of local red wine. One of the "managers" cooked, and we had a waitress, probably called in at the last minute. In a dining room that could probably seat about 120 diners we were the only two !

Day 8

Breakfast in the Hotel once we found how to get into the dining room through the staff entrance !

In the pretty village of Civita – I had a coffee & and a lovely fresh home-made.......

On our last night we stayed at a (quite plush) business hotel in Naples not far from the airport. We learned on our arrival that the restaurant was closed for the weekend due to "technical reasons", and as we didn't relish the thought of getting the car back out of the fairly dubious 24hr car-park we'd just deposited it in after a fairly horrific drive through part of the city, we would take up the suggestion of the guy on reception to order us pizzas to be delivered. Once ordered they took an hur and twenty minutes to arrive, albeit with a complimentary bag of doughballs for our trouble! The hotel bar was opened up for us to eat in and have a beer or two. So there we sat, a sofa a-piece, watching a wide screen tv, on our own, almost feeling "at home" !

Day 9

Breakfast in the hotel room.... a dry old affair !

And a BA tuna mayo & cheese'n'pickle sarnie completed the journey on the return to the UK !

Current Mood: accomplished
Current Location: home
Current Music: gaydar radio

One of my (many) favourite places we visited on our Calabrian trip was the abandoned village of Pentedattilo in the foothills of the Aspromonte region. Most inhabitants left after the 1783 earthquake damaged many of its buildings, only some Greek residents remained living there until the 1908 earthquake, which caused landslides that damaged the rest. It seems that a handful of houses have been restored recently, probably as holiday homes, and some work has been carried out on the narrow streets and footpaths, making it fairly easy to clamber around the main parts. The name comes from the rock formation of what look like fingers... there were 5, but now only 4.

It felt very peaceful the morning we were there, we only saw two other people, leaving, with there big cameras, as we arrived, and a man who has a tiny artisan shop, but he didn't hang around to see if we would buy anything ! (we probably would have done !) as he closed up whilst we were wondering around the village. The sun was shining, and the lush green spring vegetation and wild flowers were buzzing with the sound of bees everywhere, otherwise the only sound was distant barking dogs in the valley below. There are wonderfully panoramic views over the Ionian Sea.

In 1686, at Easter, a son of a noble family massacred all the members of another ruling family, over objections to a marriage, in one of the houses, and the locals believe that it's the sound of the marquis crying out in anger over his lost family and lands when the wind roars through the valley in bad weather.

As we were leaving I spotted this "carving" on a rock......... a sign for UFOs, Dr Who, Flash Gordon ??......... Spooky !

Current Mood: enthralled
Current Location: home

As the song goes, "Wherever I Lay My Head...." ! I'm sure I drive Franco (

london1967 ) insane sometimes, but I've never been good with "basic" accomodation on holiday, so when planning our trips he is always very mindful of what I may, or, more importantly, may not like ! And when we have a touring trip, like Calabria, the search becomes even more intensive......... But, he always does well ! Luckily we both like small intimate places rather than big anonymous hotels. Me, high maintenance ?? LOL

Our second stop on the tour was Tropea for two nights, and we stayed at the Villa Antica , which had a bit of the feel of one of the Florida gay resorts we stayed in a few years ago. We called our room "Pompeii meets Essex" ! .....though a number of design faults needed looking into..... however we enjoyed our stay. Breakfast was served in the large first floor conservatory, with table service.... that almost became comedy as the waitress would keep bring trays and trays of all sorts of food in no particular order ! and on our first morning the chap from reception came all the way up to present us with what turned out to be a shot of schnapps (or something similar) with a slice of apple in it, a case of WTF as we saw no-one else get this treat ! ......and me with a full day of driving ahead..... oh well, all in the holiday spirit !

Is it a sports car or a bath ? ... we never tried it out as there was also a large wet-room style shower, though being a step up (rather than down) it was very prone to flooding..... a very smart, but rotting, wooden vanity unit indicated this had been going on for some considerable time...... Besides, amongst the many switches we couldn't locate what worked what !! LOL

Our next two night stay was in Scilla, with "Hello" magazine furniture, though with a great view from the bedroom terrace of sunsets and the christmas pudding shaped, slightly smoking, island of Stromboli, and firework display one night to signal the end of Carnevale

We still had another 3 places to stay after these, one of which would turn out to be heaven for me................... to be continued:

Current Mood: contemplative
Current Location: home
Current Music: birdsong in the garden !

Just for some of my LJ friends that like cats, here are a few Calabrian ones. Most of the cats were very nervous and ran off when approached, not like the Tuscan kitties at all, which lead me to think that they are probably not treated as pets in this region.

These two, that definitely looked like siblings, strolled towards each other then were quite affectionate.... maybe living around a monastery they were much more relaxed...........

The black kitty, in a deserted village, was a real cross-patch, and gave a growl/screech worthy of any horror film before running off, we almost felt cursed ! LOL
Someone else has fleas by the look of it !

....soaking up a few rays, safely out of reach !

A FB friend shared this with me.... I thought it very amusing, and it reminded me of a cat I once had.... Willis, if he'd not held me in such disdain he was definitely capable of all this !! LOL

Current Mood: good
Current Location: home

On the last night of our trip we stayed at a "business hotel" in Naples.... our room number was the same as our house number 108, and the night before in another hotel we were a room away from it too !

So, on our travels there were also a few signs and images that "amused" me...........

My initials are A C R and I rather liked this combination

seen at the Carthusian Monastery of Saint Bruno of Cologne, also on the same wrought iron door guarding the Saint's resting place was the Vivienne Westwood-like emblem

Elsewhere.......

those two really amused me
then there were knockers and hearts

and cheese !

and a view of Mount Vesuvius some time ago !

Current Mood: awake
Current Location: home
Current Music: britney on the radio ! LOL

Well, we are back from our Calabrian Experience, and quite an experience it was too !!

We certainly covered a lot of ground on our tour, and it's probably going to take me some time to get my thoughts "on paper" !

It was a wonderful trip, the best bit being with the lovely Franco (

london1967 ) 24/9 ! .....and it already feels a bit like a dream as it's now back to earth with grocery shopping and laundry !

At the beginning of the holiday I text a friend mentioning the not-so-good weather we had to start, she replied that at least we still had stunning scenery and fantastic food to look forward to !..... stunning scenery, yes, absolutely, but more about the food later ! LOL !

The tour-planner and navigator.....